Yesterday I went back to Stonehenge, Lacock, and Bath. It was surreal. I was so glad I did it on my own. I've gotten so used to accommodating other people when I travel, and it was so freeing to be able to do my own thing. I wanted to go back to Stonehenge so I could go inside and touch the stones, and soak in the spirituality of the place.
Our tour guide David was an incredible man. He was one of the funniest and most loving people I've met. There were twenty-six people on the tour, and he learned everyone's name and story within the first couple hours. He brought everyone together, and we all got to know each other and bonded. Inside of Stonehenge, everyone started taking pictures, and David said to us, "Everyone put your cameras down. You have time to take pictures later. Just feel it for a minute." It was incredible how outside of Stonehenge, the sound of local traffic was loud and distracting, but the closer you went into the center of the stone circle, it became quieter and there was this thick energy and prevailing peace. We got to touch the stones and walk between them, which was nothing short of amazing.
Lacock was an old old village. We all ate at a pub there that dated back to the 14th century. One of the Harry Potter movies had a scene that was filmed there. After that (which was actually breakfast, because it was only 9am by the time we got there-- it was an early tour!) we went on a walking tour of the village. I wish I could have stayed a week there. Everyone was so nice there. We saw the home that was used as Harry Potters' parents home in the movies, and we talked with the man who lived there. He was as sweet as could be, and I'm sure is used to people staring at his home. He joked about Harry not being home today. We saw a few other locations from the movie, as well as from the movie version of Jane Austen's Persuasion. The village was so adorable and quaint, with thatched roofs and cobblestone streets, and little gardens and farm animals everywhere.
Bath was as beautiful as ever. Going into the bath spa, our guide David said to us, "Do not touch the water. It's filthy, and there's tons of bacteria, and you will get sick." He took off his tour guide necklace, and said, "Touch the water. There's no bacteria, and you'll be fine. Just make sure the security guards aren't looking, and if you get in trouble, don't tell them you're with me. I'm already not allowed in the museum." When we got inside, the security guards all joked with him and told us he was trouble. He took us into the first room before he left us to wander. He pointed out the spring that trickled into the bath and said, "That spring is an excellent place to NOT TOUCH THE WATER." Since I'd already seen the baths, I went quickly through the museum this time, touched the water at the spring, then went to wash my hands, and drink some of the bath water that is available for drinking. It tastes funny, but it's full of minerals and is quite good for you.
I went to the Jane Austen Centre, but didn't have enough time to do a tour. So I just poked my head around where I could, and spent some time in the gift shop. I got an ice cream cone from a local parlour and it was delicious. The driver of our bus was in there, and he was talking with the shopkeeper about how sweet and pretty I was. I wandered the streets with my ice cream, soaking in the atmosphere, listening to street performers-- who were actually quite good! I met a whole number of people-- many who were trying to advertise the banks, but when realizing I was a tourist, settled with just talking, and asking me about my time in the UK. They were some of the friendliest and most genuine people I'd ever met. Finally I stood on the bridge overlooking the river, and just enjoyed the warm air and sun. It was a beautiful day, and I was so glad to have had the chance to return.
On the way home, David told us his story. He came from South Africa, where he had a black housemaid who spoke Zulu. His parents only allowed her to speak Zulu with him, so that was his first language. When he came to England, his mother made him promise never to become English, so he has only a South African passport. As a result, he can't collect pension when he retires. Since his main job is being a school teacher, he is required by law to retire when he's 70, which is in a year. He has been giving tours for the past several years on his days off, and he will make that his full time gig once he's retired. Since he speaks Zulu, he is the Mandelas tour guide when they come to town. He also spoke lovingly about his students. He teaches at a boys' school in a very poor part of London, and most of them are from broken homes. He keeps a book with money in it, and if his students need money, they are welcome to take what they need, provided they write in the book their name and how much they borrowed, and they promise to pay him back in the next ten years. He leaves his home unlocked so they can come in anytime if they need a sanctuary to come to.
England had a lot to offer yesterday.
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